Is All Bar One Leicester Square the best bar in London? No, but it’s the most convenient best friend you can have after a long day. It’s the human equivalent of a pair of slippers that look stylish. It’s reliable, it’s there, and it doesn’t ask for much – just your debit card and a little bit of patience if you arrive at peak time.
So next time you are being herded through the Square like a bewildered sheep, remember the big windows and the slightly-too-loud music upstairs. Pop in. Order the halloumi. Nod at a stranger. You’ve earned it. And if you see a person in a Spider-Man hoodie arguing about Sherlock, buy them a drink – they’ll probably be hilarious.
